Located in Lake Nicaragua you’ll find Ometepe – an island formed by two volcanoes on the southern and northern part of the island. Ometepe is an amazing place with beautiful nature and a lot of outdoor activities. Sometimes it is referred to as the oasis of peace, thanks to the tranquil vibes, the feeling of disconnect and a slow pace. When visiting Nicaragua, Ometepe is a must-visit, no matter if you want to swim in natural pools, climb volcanoes, kayak rivers or explore waterfalls. This blog post guides you through everything you need to know about Ometepe; how to get there, what to do, where to eat etc.
How to get to Ometepe
Getting to Ometepe is a little bit of a project, but totally worth the trip. I am going to divide the getting to Ometepe into three parts.
Part 1: Get yourself to Rivas
Rivas is the connection point from any major destinations in southern Nicaragua, like San Juan del Sur, Granada and Popoyo. Getting to Rivas is the first step of your travel to Ometepe and probably the most easy part. Chicken buses depart from all destinations to Rivas for about 50 Córdobas (1.5 USD). Of course you can also grab a taxi if you prefer that.
Part 2: Ferry from San Jorge to Ometepe
Since Ometepe is an island located in Lake Nicaragua, you will need to take a ferry to get there. The San Jorge port, where the ferries depart from, is close to Rivas, about a 10 minute car ride. If you choose to go by bus to Rivas, you can either try to time another bus heading for the port, or grab a taxi. Taxis should cost around 100 Córdobas (3 USD) so I would recommend that, then you get to the port fast.
From the port there are ferries departing throughout the day. You buy your ticket on the spot for 50 Córdobas. The ferry ride takes about 1 hour. Most of them head to Moyagalpa port in Ometepe, but some do go to another port called San José del Sur. This is located more south, so make sure to double check where your ferry is going.
Part 3: Getting to your accommodation in Ometepe
When in Ometepe, there are again multiple options of how to get around. Some people choose to rent a scooter directly in Moyagalpa and drive to their accommodation with that, no matter where on the island it’s located. If you’re not comfortable driving with bags, you can either take the public bus or taxi. Usually there are several people heading to your direction so you can get a shared taxi or tuk-tuk for good prices. You can definitely try to aim for filling up a taxi for around 5 USD per person. The public bus does not depart that often and only two per day are direct buses to the southern parts of the island, so make sure to time them. One important thing to know is that no buses depart on Sundays.
What to do in Ometepe
Ometepe is an island where you definitely can keep yourself busy for a few days. I will guide you through some of the absolute best things I did in Ometepe.
Kayak on Rio Istián
Rio Istián is a river/swamp in the middle of Ometepe island. You will reach it by kayaking along the west side of the island. Kayaking this river was one of the most tranquil moments I had during my Omepete visit. At least when we were on the river. Kayaking there was quite rough actually, because the day we did is was a bit windy, and Lake Nicaragua can have some big waves. But when we entered the river, the water was flat and we got to cruise along it in a slow pace. The river does it best at sunset, so try to book an afternoon tour. Expect to see a lot of birds! If you’re lucky you can even see iguanas and caimans.
Hike to the San Ramón waterfall
Ometepe has one big waterfall and it’s called Cascada de San Ramón. The waterfall is located in the middle of the jungle on the Maderas side and it takes quite a walk to get there. Expect hiking for about 1.5 hours to get to the waterfall, and a little bit more than an hour to get back. The last part of the hike can be a bit slippery, so use proper shoes. You’ll be climbing on rocks and along small rivers. In the beginning the hike is easy, road wise, but since the waterfall is located on a volcano, it will require some inclince and it can be quite sweaty in the beginning before you reach the jungle and the shade.
Take a swim in Ojo de Agua
Ojo de Agua is a natural pool in the middle part of the island. It’s a popular spot to go to cool down, since the water is a bit colder here. In peak season the place can get quite crowded, so I would suggest going a little bit earlier, around 9AM. Most people started arriving arround 11AM. The cost is 10 USD, which can sound expensive, but 5 of these USD you’ll get as a check to use in the restaurant.
Explore the island by scooter
Ometepe is quite undeveloped and untouched, so one of the best things to do there is to just drive around the island and explore. I rented a scooter and it was so worth it!
Hike one of the volcanoes (or both!)
There are two volcanoes in Ometepe, one active and one non-active. They are however both hikeable! The Maderas volcano is more for a unique hiking experience in jungle and cloudforests. You do not do this one for amazing views, although there are some beautiful view points on the way up. When you reach the summit, you’ll have a beautiful view of the crater lagoon. You can also head down to the lake and even take a swim if you want to. Read more about hiking the Maderas volcano here. The Concepción volcano has some beautiful nature as well in the beginning, but since this one is active, it is more of ash and rocks. Here you can get some stunning views of the Ometepe island if the weather allows it and on the summit you can look down into the crater. I would say hiking at least one of the volcanoes is one of the top things to do in Ometepe.
Sunset at Playa Mangos
Playa Mangos is a beach bar on the southwestern side of Ometepe and definitely one of the best sunset spots on the island. It has a beautiful view of the Concepción volcano, and a beach with some swings.
Where to eat in Ometepe
Most of the restaurants in the southern part of the island are located in Balgüe or in between Balgüe and Santa Cruz. Here are some of my favorite places:
Bustavo – A middle-eastern place serving great pitas, falafels and shakshukas.
Cafe Campestre – Campestre is one of the best spots on the island. They serve amazing currys, but also has other things on the menu.
Cafe Comedor Isabel – The best place for local Nicaraguan food. Cheap and delicious!
Pan de Mama – A cafe perfect for breakfast or a coffee. Great bread in general can always be a bit tricky to get a hold of, so this is where you head when you get that bread craving.
El Zopilote – A permaculture farm up in the jungle serving vegan food. Since it requires a bit of a walk to get to this place and it’s through jungle, I suggest this place for breakfast or lunch when it’s light outside.
El Pital – A chocolate paradise. They produce their own chocolate, so head here for some relaxation and a chocolate smoothie.
Where to stay in Ometepe
Ometepe is an island that usually is divided into two parts, since it’s formed like an eight, and the mid spots of each side being a volcano. The Concepcion side is the northern part and the Maderas part is the southern part. The ferries arrive to Moyagalpa, which is located on the northwestern side, but I do not recommend to stay there. Most travelers head south and stay in either Santa Cruz or Balgüe, and this is where I suggest you stay as well. I stayed in Balgüe and really liked it. It’s a small time with some nice options of restaurants and hotels.
For budget travelers, I recommend staying in La Urraca Loca. It’s a small hostel located a bit off the main road (but still close) and up towards the jungle. What was also convenient with this hostel is that if you travel by bus on the island, the bus stop is right by the entry to the road that leads to the hostel. Prices start at 11 USD for a dorm.
Two other options for more luxury is Totoco Eco Resort and Selvista Guesthouses. Totoco Eco Resort is located on top of a hill and has an amazing view, and Selvista Guesthouses has bungalows surrounded by beautiful jungle. Both accommodations start around 85 USD per night for a bungalow.
I feel like I also need to mention Zopilote for a unique experience, although it’s not for everyone. Zopilote is located a bit further up in the jungle (10 minute walk approximately). It’s a permaculture farm with compost toilets, so it’s definitely an off the beaten track experience.
How to get around in Ometepe
The size of the Ometepe island might surprise you. It is quite large and getting from the most northern point to southern point takes more than an hour. Walking is not an option, so I’ll break down all your options when it comes to means of transportation.
Scooter and motorcycle
Renting a scooter or motorcycle is by far the most popular option on how to get around in Ometepe. Many people rent these right by the port when arriving, driving to where they stay. It is however also possible to rent when you get to your place. I didn’t want to rent a scooter and drive with my backpack, so I chose the latter option. And for a person who was really nervous of driving a scooter, Ometepe is the perfect place to practice. The roads are good in most parts of the island and there is very little traffic. Plus, the locals know there are a lot of travelers renting scooters so they are very respectful driving. Renting a scooter will cost you about 15 USD per day and a motorcycle around 20 USD.
ATV
If you are not comfortable driving a scooter, you can rent an ATV. This might be favorable if you plan on doing a lot of exploring off road. On the southeastern part of the island, the roads are not as good. An ATV is a bit more expensive, with prices starting around 50 USD per day.
Bicycle
Renting a bicycle is an option as well, and the cheapest one, costing 5 USD per day. However, I would not recommend this if you are planning on exploring major parts of the island. A bicycle is perfect if you’re just planning on seeing the closest parts of the island from where you’re staying.
Public bus
There is a public bus running on Ometepe, but this is not the best way to get around while exploring. Using the public bus is better to use when you arrive or depart, just from getting to and from the port in Moyagalpa.
Taxi
Taxi is an option and this one can be used when exploring the island. Some hotels and hostels can help you arrange ”taxi exploring”. This will be quite expensive though. I would recommend using taxi the same way as you use public bus, only to get to and from your accommodation. Expect a taxi ride from the port in Moyagalpa to the southern parts of the island (Balgüe, Santa Cruz, Mérida) to cost between 15 – 25 USD.
When to visit Ometepe
Ometepe is an island where a lot of people go mainly for outdoor activities and discovery. Going to Ometepe in the rainy season is therefore not recommended. The dry season in Nicaragua typically runs from November to April, so this is the best time to visit.
However (and this one’s an insider tip), we need to talk about the month of November. The island is located in Lake Nicaragua where the water levels rises during rainy season. November is a no-mans-land when it comes to dry or rainy season. When I visited in November there was a tropical storm running through Central America, meaning the water levels were really high. This concluded in all the beaches being gone. So if you want to go to Ometepe and spend some time on the beaches, do not go in November. Even if you have good weather, this is right after the rainy season and there is a risk the water levels are higher. Although, it is not as crowded and the nature is more lush and waterfalls more dense, so if you want to explore the inner island, November might be the best option.
