Puerto Viejo will forever be one of my favorite towns in Costa Rica. This laid-back beach town on the Caribbean side of the country has a welcoming small-town atmosphere and is known for its lively mix of cultures, a combination of Afro-Caribbean and Latino vibes. With its untouched beaches, lush nature and picturesque streets it’s a can’t miss when going to Costa Rica. Although being a small town, Puerto Viejo provides a large range of activities and nearby places to visit. I’m about to present you with some of the best things to do while in Puerto Viejo.
How to get to Puerto Viejo
First of all, let’s walk through how to get to Puerto Viejo. Something that is important to know is that there is actually two Puerto Viejo’s in Costa Rica, which can be a bit confusing. The Puerto Viejo I’m talking about is Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. The other one is called Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí and is located in the northeastern part of Costa Rica.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is located in the southeastern parts of Costa Rica, on the Caribbean side and close to the Panama border. No matter where in Costa Rica you are you will most likely pass the capital San Jose before heading towards Puerto Viejo. I will therefore guide you on how to get from San Jose to Puerto Viejo. Prepare for a beautiful drive in the mountains, rainforests and along the Caribbean coast.
Getting to Puerto Viejo by shared shuttle
The most convenient way to get to Puerto Viejo is by shared shuttle. 12Go is a reliable page where you can search between multiple shuttle companies. Most of them will have you picked up by your hotel in San Jose and drive you directly to your hotel in Puerto Viejo. I went with Caribe Shuttles and everything worked very smoothly, although a lot of traffic to get out of San Jose. We stopped half-way for snacks and the minivan even had wi-fi. The price is around $60 and the journey takes around 4 hours.
Getting to Puerto Viejo by bus
Local buses operate between San Jose and Puerto Viejo daily. The bus company is called Transportes MEPE and the ticket for a one-way journey is around $13. Departure times from San Jose are 6AM, 8AM, 10AM, 12PM (on Fridays and Saturdays), 2PM and 4PM. The bus usually makes a short stop in Limon for a bathroom and snack break, before moving on to Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. The journey takes about 4.5 hours.
Top things to do in Puerto Viejo
Find the hidden beach Playa Chiquita
Playa Chiquita is the least known beach in Puerto Viejo. There is just one small path leading you through the jungle from the main road to the beach, and if you don’t know there is a beach hiding behind the jungle, you will probably miss the entrance. This is most likely the reason why the beach is one of the least visited in Puerto Viejo. I’m glad it hasn’t gotten too exploited, because this is one of the most beautiful beaches I have visited in the world and I had it practically to myself. Definitely a top thing to do in Puerto Viejo! If you want to know more about this beach and how to find it, you can read about it here.
Surf some of the best waves in Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo has some of Costa Rica’s best surf spots and attracts surfers from all over the world on every level of expertise. The most famous wave for professionals is Salsa Brava but if large waves and barrels aren’t for you – don’t worry – there are multiple beaches you can surf as beginner or intermediate. Head to Playa Cocles for beach breaks or surf point break at Punta Uva.
Visit the national parks Cahuita and Manzanillo
There are two national parks near Puerto Viejo; Manzanillo in the south and Cahuita in the north. Both national parks have beautiful beaches, so bring swimwear. There is a good chance you’ll have wildlife encounters when visiting, for example coatis, monkeys, birds and sloths if you’re lucky.
Walk along the black sand beach Playa Negra
The most unique beach in Puerto Viejo is called Playa Negra and is a black sand beach. The beach is located close to the centre of the town and stretches for approximately 10 kilometers. Although being so close to town, the beach is surprisingly empty. You can walk and walk and not meet a single person – perfect for picture-taking! I actually asked a local why it’s not as visited, because according to me this is one of the most beautiful beaches in Puerto Viejo, and he couldn’t really tell. I guess we’ll never know, but don’t let that stop you from going!
Try the local cuisine
The cuisine in Puerto Viejo is more Jamaican influenced than the rest of Costa Rica and is a must have when visiting. The Costa Rican cuisine in general is nothing special, but the dishes in Puerto Viejo had much more flavor and spices. Cocomar is one of the best restaurants to have this cuisine. I got it recommended from a local and it did not disappoint. Another great local restaurant in Puerto Viejo is Lidia’s Place.
Relax at the downtown beach with a shipwreck
The so called main beach in Puerto Viejo is Playa Puerto Viejo, located by the town centre. This is the smallest beach in the whole Puerto Viejo area, but it’s still a beautiful one. It also has a cool shipwreck close to shore where you can take some nice pictures.
Go on a wildlife tour at the Jaguar Rescue Center
The Jaguar Rescue Center is a temporary home for sick, injured, and orphaned animals focusing on monkeys, sloths, birds and reptiles. If you want to learn more about Costa Rica’s wildlife and the challenges the animals face, and have some close up encounters, a tour at the Jaguar Rescue Center is perfect.
Play volleyball and hang out at Playa Cocles
Playa Cocles is in my opinion the least beautiful beach in Puerto Viejo, but the one with the most lively atmosphere. In between the beach and the main road there are tons of barbecue stands playing music and grilling skewers. It is almost impossible to bike past this and smell the grill and not stop. Playa Cocles has surf board rental and volleyball nets and therefore this beach is therefore perfect if you don’t only want to lay on your towel and tan.
Have an after beach at one of the beach bars
After a beach day, surfing or exploring, an after beach is the way to go. Head to one of the beach bars at happy hour for a little cocktail or beer. Puerto Pirata is in my opinion the best beach bar in Puerto Viejo.
Rent a bike and explore nearby areas
Renting a bike is the best way to explore Puerto Viejo’s surrounding areas. You can take tuk-tuk taxis to get around as well, but the flexibility of having a bike is much better. Go beach hunting, chase waterfalls or just bike around. This is definitely one of the best things to do in Puerto Viejo. I loved having my little bike for a few days. It made everything feel more at home.
Explore the BriBri Waterfalls
The BriBri Waterfalls is the name of multiple waterfalls close to Puerto Viejo. They consist of three different waterfalls: Catarata Ma-Cu, Two Waters Waterfall and Volio. Catarata Ma-Cu is the most visited one and is also the safest. Volio is the least visited due to its seclusiveness. This also means there is a higher risk of petty theft, why a guide to this waterfall is highly recommended.
Visit both parts of Playa Punta Uva
Punta Uva is the beach furthest away from Puerto Viejo town centre and the last beach you will pass before arriving to Manzanillo National Park. Punta Uva is one of the largest beaches in the area, and is divided into two parts. What separates them is thick jungle and a rocky point. The first section of the beach is more visited and has the famous Punta Uva point break to surf. The second part is the more beautiful one though. I would recommend visiting both for a full Punta Uva experience.
Best hotels in Puerto Viejo
The best option for budget travelers or people wishing to stay in hostels is definitely Pagalú. This place is actually quite talked about among travelers in Puerto Viejo and usually fully booked during peak season. Make sure to book this a few weeks in advance if you wish to stay here. I stayed at Pagalú and enjoyed everything about it. It’s a tranquil hostel very close to downtown, but on a secluded street with less traffic.
La Tribu is another accommodation option if you are a woman, since this is a female only hostel. I met a girl when surfing that stayed here and she liked it a lot.